all night girls on the “d” train
so this afternoon i intended to revise a short story, the chameleon and the tiger, with inspiration drawn from amanda mcpherson’s song, fireflies and honeysuckle. i kind of promised her i would, and i still will, at some point; but it’s funny to me how often i can sit down ready to write something but something entirely different comes out.
this is harlem as i see it.
i live in morningside heights, which is a stone’s throw from harlem. in fact, when i exit the d-train five blocks from my apartment at 147th and st nicholas, there’s a mexican restaurant on the corner of amsterdam that advertises itself as “nuevo harlem.” i did my homework before i took this sublet. violent crime and property crime in the area were all down 90-80 percent from the hey-day of the 1970s and ’80s crack epidemic. and the current rates were comparable to everywhere else in manhattan. but i mean, down 80 percent from 1,000 is still 200.
sometimes when i walk to work in my suit-and-tie, someone will yell something at me like, “hey white boy.” when i ride the train, i’m usually the only caucasian in the car. being a minority is a new experience for a heterosexual, white, christian male. i live on the corner of broadway and 149th street in a 2nd-floor walk-up. there is no air conditioning, but i have a window unit that i run at night and in the mornings. all the nearby shops are dirty and foul-smelling. gone are the cosmic cantinas and caribou coffees, replaced with crown fried chickens and dunkin’ donuts. i’ve found a few oases, like the laundromat across the street, where the owner calls me sweetie and does my laundry “extra special.” i tip them obscenely. the dry cleaner up the street, where i take my suits and dress shirts, the owner barely speaks any english and he’s always dismissively busy. but he has the best prices, so i keep going. my super is named maggie and she’s the best. there’s a garden next to our building called “maggie’s garden.” the new york restoration project paid for it be renovated several years ago, and now she takes care of it. she’s always smiling whenever i see her and she asks me how my day was and calls me “sugar.” i like maggie, my super.
there are no tourists on my part of broadway, so it feels lived in. there are lots of families and young kids. one day on my way to the grocery store (c-town, even worse than the tesco basement in prague) i had to dodge a group of seven-year-olds bicycling up and down the sidewalk on broadway. on my stoop there’s always a group of middle- and-high school-aged kids sitting around talking. sometimes there’s a fold-up table set up on the sidewalk where old men play dominoes and cards. at night there are lots of cars and shouting. the other afternoon i watched a guy chase this girl, who i assume is or was his girlfriend, calling her all kinds of obscenities. there’s a stoop near amsterdam where five or six haitians are sitting every day when i pass from work. i see drug deals all the time. sometimes right in front of cops. there’s a police station 8 or so blocks away, which is nice.
summers in new york are oppressively hot. when i go for a run, i run by the hudson river through riverside park where the temperature is a little bit cooler. i take it all the way up to the george washington bridge where the little red lighthouse sits beneath the giant steel skeleton. i like the smells on this run. there are pine trees and hot dog stands and people grilling fat juicy hamburgers. the water doesn’t quite smell salty, and even though i know it’s so dirty no sane human being should ever swim in it, some pleasant and fresh scent always seems to come from the breeze over the calm water. as mantas says, the worst thing about hot weather in new york is how every so often an utterly offensive smell will reach your nose and make you want to vomit. not so in riverside.
but a new york summer is every bit as hot and humid as a north carolina summer. i’m guessing the difference is that new york’s won’t last until october. i take the d-train from 147th down to seventh avenue to get to work. spending more than three minutes inside a subway station results in getting soaking wet from all the sweat. the cars on the d-train are, thankfully, air conditioned. but they’re usually so crowded with bronxians and harlemites commuting to midtown and downtown that i have to stand up for the entire train ride, shoulder-to-shoulder, bumping along with everyone else as the train tumbles down the dark subway paths. sometimes i let go of the handrail and try to see how long i can stay balanced. i call it “subway surfing.” but only when the trains are kind of empty. one time i almost knocked andi down because i wasn’t holding on to a bar. she was not amused.
oh, and there are no cockroaches in my apartment. but yesterday, on the way to the laundromat, i saw the biggest cockroach i’ve ever seen in my entire life. four-and-a-half inches of nuclear-resistant love. no joke.

So this Belgian woman,